Some moments in life call for the unique archetypal power and magic of fairy tales to console us, to cloak us in their warm embrace of sparkling pixie dust and story-foam, and to replace our salty tears with sweet and tender smiles of ease and well-being.
As coincidence or fate would have it, I have just the right kind offairy tale up my Gypsy-sleeve. Wanna lean back, pour yourself your favorite type of tea, and be whisked away to a world of almost-pure imagination? Your storytime-wish is my command – los geht´s (let´s go)!
A tale of two brothers
Once upon a time, there were two brothers. One was called Jacob Ludwig Karl. The other was called Wilhelm Carl. They were pretty smart cookies and excelled in academia, cultural research, and literature. The brothers had a shared passion: they just LOVED to travel deep into the past and mine for the golden nuggets of forgotten truths. While on their their intrepid adventures, they met some astonishing storytelling-heroines like Dorothea Viehmann and poetess extraordinaire Annette von Droste-Hülshoff.
A foresty fairy tale is awaiting you…
Will you come along?
These heroines shared age-old wisdom in story-form with the German brothers from Hanau, and the brothers Grimm (yes, that was their full name) passionate storytelling-fire led them to set the stories in stone aka on paper and gift us with the Grimm´s fairytales, originally known as Children´s and household tales, first published in December 1812 and containing 210 unique fairytales. Oh, curious side-info: The Grimm´s were also fab enough to found the immensely valuable fairytale science (“Märchenkunde als Wissenschaft” in German).
Venturing into charming Red-Riding-Hood-country
Germany´s magnificent forests and charming towns and villages build a lot of the backdrops of Grimm´s fairytales – and, like magic wands/ wants it… drumroll, German yodel song, drumroll: the brothers did invite us back to where they used to live and where they frequently felt the gentle caress of their muse. This place is, up until today, known as “Red-Riding-Hood-country“, located all around Kassel and Marburg in Hessen, right in the heart of Germany. Pretty cool to go on an outing with such outstanding personalities of German and European Cultural history, right?
“Bist du bereit?” Rotkäppchen wartet schon auf uns!” (“Are you ready? Little-Red-Riding-Hood is already waiting for us!“), Carl Grimm enunciates excitedly in his Hessian accent while greeting us at one of the entry-points of the famous “Knüllwald“, the Knüll-forest in the densely wooded region of the Knüllgebirge (Knüll hills).
The magical forests of Knüll
“Klar, los gehts!” (of course, let´s go!), I reply, dragging you along:P. All around us – majestically towering larch trees, rich green leaves rustling in the light breeze, and picturesque quiet valleys that seem untouched from any notion of acceleration, just at ease being left to their own being.
After a short hike in the rural area of Knüll (darn, Wilhelm Grimm forgot to tell us to bring proper hiking shoes! These lofty scholars again with their heads in the clouds), we reach the Wildpark Knüll wildlife park.
“There! Little Red Riding Hood! Can you see her?”, asks Carl Grimm with a pleased look upon his face. “Nah, all I see are horses!“, I reply enthusiastically.
Who wants to find Little Red Ridinghood if they can hang with me instead? Yes, we speak horse.
On the lookout for a small girl in a bright red cape
Might as well meditate in between
Red Riding Hood must be playing Hide and Seek. It´s her favorite game, after all! Big cape and all? Just saying…
Or do I glimpse a little girl in a cute red cape vanishing into the woods in the distance? No time to figure this one out – Wilhelm Grimm is impatiently tugging me by my sleeve. “There he is, the rascal! Up to no good, as usual!”
What the wolf doesn´t tell
A gorgeous wolf appears in front of us, his silvery-grey fur almost sparkling a little in the gentle sunshine. For a moment, I wonder – did the brothers Grimm not mix something up here, and mistake this gorgeous, wild, and honorable creature for an off-track human? Why would a wolf be after a little girl in a red cape? Do wolfs not usually go for prey like deer, elk, bison, and moose, or beavers?
The wolf – misunderstood, mighty, and miraculous
He looks gorgeous, doesn´t he? Red Ridinghood who?
Mmm, something to ponder indeed. I decide to keep my admiration for the wolf to myself, though. By the way, check out the fantastic book “Wild Harmonies: A Life of Music and Wolves” by acclaimed French pianist Helene Grimaud – she literally lives with and around wolves, when not playing on the stages of this world, and has astonishing things to say about the true nature of these intriguing animals.
Checking out Sleeping Beauty´s enchanted abode
“Oh, ich hab langsam Hunger!” (Oh, I am slowly getting hungry!) Let´s head over to Sleeping beauty´s place – she is probably out like a light, but her place ist really erste Sahne (first class, literally: first cream)“, comments Wilhelm Grimm.
Half an hour later, and we find ourselves at Sleeping Beauty´s cozy abode in Homberg/Efze, a sleepy (obviously) and charming little town not far from the enchanted forests we had just visited. Unfortunately, Sleeping Beauty must have fallen asleep somewhere else as she is nowhere to be seen. And I so wanted to quiz her on how to sleep like REALLY well! Ah, next time. The brothers Grimm show us around and also share a little gossip on the town of Homberg, which is just one of many, many stops along the 600 km long German fairy tale route that reaches from Bremen in Northern Germany to Hanau in Central Germany, not far from where we find ourselves now.
Sleeping Beauty´s place
Not sure why she still keeps this thing around…
The view from Sleeping Beauty´s window
Pleased to visit a real fairy tale abode
A part of the German Fairy Tale Road. Image-Copyright: Deutsche Märchenstrasse/ German Fairy Tale Road
A lot more happens that magical day in Central Germany, and if there is one thing I would love for you to take away from this, it´s that miracles and magic are real and do happen… never lose faith, be prepared for good things to come to you, and keep your heart and mind wide open!
Back to you, dear reader: What is your favorite ever fairy tale? And: Do you believe in magic, and that there is more to life than what we can see? Or are you a die-hard realist? As always, I would love to hear from you:)
On a different note: I am considering offering a limited amount of fun German and Spanish language and culture classes again! In case you want to find out more, just get in touch via mariaelena@agypsyatheart.com Bis bald:)
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Aaaah….the warm, gentle waters caress your skin and embrace you in their all-accepting ways. You basically feel like a quietly content yet massive baby in a heated cozy blanket. You step in further, and with the healing thermal waters enveloping your body almost completely now, you notice all your relentless thoughts and questions slowly melting away. You are fully immersing yourself in this roman bath experience, and you are pretty thankful indeed that you opted for the Caracalla spa instead of the Friedrichsbad spa after all. You are just not ready for full frontal nudity from all those other spa-guests, for f* sake! And you might never be! You probably won´t.
Sanus per Aquam: The healing power of pretty darn hot thermal waters
Romans are rather awesome, though, you think to yourself. Not entirely awesome, obviously, because Gladiator-fights and stuff. And killing animals for spectator-fun – not cool! But good on the old Romans for remembering the old adage “Sanus per Aquam“, healthy through water, when they stumbled upon the curative Baden-Baden thermal waters 2000 years ago and continued to build the first thermal baths in town.
Daily, more than a whopping 800.000 liters of these waters at up to 68 degree celcius heat (154 degrees Fahrenheit) bubble upwards from twelve springs at a depth of about 2000 meters under the earth. On its adventurous journey to the earth´s surface, the water gets keen on making some housemates and so takes in minerals such as natrium, chloride, fluoride, lithium, and others. This is were the outstanding healing powers of the thermal waters originate.
Feeling dizzy? Looking rather pale? Achy joints at times? Off into the waters you go. The ones in the spa, not the 68 degree ones, that is. Otherwise, the ultimate relax factor might evaporate rather quickly…
The Caracalla Therme, a spa with a beautifully modern yet sophisticated feel, offers visitors a vast arrange of liquid-pleasure-pools, including but not limited to a rock grotto with hot and cold water, a sensual aromatic steam bath, and a salt water inhalation room. But what am I telling you, you know exactly what I´m talking about, seeing that you are the narrator of this story! Let´s get back to your experience.
“Nothing is softer or more flexible than water, yet nothing can resist it” (Lao Tzu) Image by Rupert Kittinger-Sereinig from Pixabay
Swimming through a small exit in the outer wall of the indoor spa area, a 38 degree heated marble outdoor pool is awaiting you. It boasts a magnificent whirlpool at its center, in which a few people are leisurely enjoying their bathing experience. Getting a bit coy, you take a deep breath, dive under, and are suddenly submerged in calming quit and comforting stillness. The rejuvenating power of the tranquility under the surface never ceases to amaze you somehow.
Seeing that you can´t hold your breath much longer, you reluctantly emerge from your Zen-like state only to realize that rain has begun to fall. Cooling raindrops are quickly moistening your skin, building a sensual contrast with the heated waters enveloping your body. You spot a peaceful corner of the pool underneath some lush plants and trees, swim over, and just let yourself float for a while. What a perfect moment to reminisce about your extraordinary day in Baden Baden, really!
Baden-Baden´s Black Forest: A vibrant fairytale in the making
The morning seems pretty far away now, but yeah, of course you remember, how couldn´t you: that morning excursion to the mighty Black Forest was like something straight out of a fairytale!
There were splendid waterfalls to be marveled at, forbidden paths to be explored, soft moss to be felt, and, of course, thousands upon thousands of the mightiest trees you ever laid your eyes upon to be admired.
And that air! What could you even begin to say about it…Every breath you had taken before in less-than-pristine-environments had made you long for these silkiest of all breaths with every part of your being… for these innocent, pure, invigorating inhalations. Sweet nectar of the Gods, soothing balm for your lungs, the trees´ humble gift of vitality and life-force lifting you up and filling you with a new-found zest and passion for life!
In ancient times, people knew how to honor the power of the Black Forest: they worshiped the Celtic goddess Abnoba there, and named the Black Forest after her – Abnoba mons.
One of the most vibrantly alive places you could have imagined, the Black Forest was truly brimming with life: Cheeky birds merrily chirping away; the sounds of melodiously burbling streams; the wind gently rustling through the leaves of majestic Scots pines, silver firs, and English oaks.
The Schwarzwald (Black Forest in German), with its myriad of dark colored pine trees that give it its name, is undoubtedly one of Germany´s premier oases of peace and life-affirming magic. By the way, have you ever read the brother Grimm´s fairytales when you were little? Well, according to legend, it´s indeed Germany´s largest national park, the grand forested mountain range in the state of Baden-Würtemberg, our beloved Black Forest, that inspired these writers when they wrote Hansel and Gretel, Rapunzel, Sleeping Beauty and the likes.
Black-Forest-style Culture and Food: Of Spätzle and Lederhosen
On the way back to town – you remember as as you lie in the pool and observe that the rain has stopped and a cool yet pleasant breeze is slowly picking up – you passed some picture-perfect farmhouses with their sweeping half-hipped roofs. Looking at those houses somehow made you think of Black Forest Cake, and your grumbling stomach concurred that it was time to take a break and taste some of those local delicacies you had heard so much about. Luckily, you found just the right and rustic place for it!
In front of the Swabian restaurant
Swabian art meets Swabian interior design meets cozy vibe
This is who you´ll meet if you don´t finish your plate. A fierce Swabian in traditional attire and fancy, deer-inspired make-up.
Shortly after entering the traditional and exquisitely designed restaurant, you were greeted by a middle-aged, friendly looking waiter, dressed in the customary Lederhosen of the region. “Could you recommend something, please?” you asked him rather shyly in your best shot at hochdeutsch (the “proper” type of German that´s taught in schools).
The slightly chubby waiter gave you his biggest smile and commenced to shout some recommendations in a pretty weird accent with rather melodious sounding bits of German at you. You didn´t understand a word this man was telling you! It had to be your secret fascination with his “typical German look”, the one you otherwise just got to see at the Oktoberfests of the world, that had kept all your attention focused. You did like the look of what ended up on your plate, though, after the waiter returned to your table bringing foodie-gifts…
At the upper left: A mouthwatering soup with Maultaschen, a Swabian specialty consisting of an outer-layer of pasta dough with a filling traditionally made up of minced meat, smoked meat, spinach, bread crumbs and onions and flavored with various herbs and spices. (Not my meal! Your meal! :P)
Divine Spätzle: a staple food in the cuisine of Southern Germany, Hungary, Switzerland, and Austria. It´s basically a German egg noodle pasta with a chewy, dumpling-like texture. And it tastes even better than it looks! Ever had some? Silly question, of course you did!
After religiously savoring every bite of your culture-on-the-plate, you did feel tempted to try some delicious Apfelstrudel for desert. The waiter in his Lederhosen, formerly used as traditional attire of the working peasant-community, could probably have sold you anything with his enthusiastic demeanor, combined with your definite lack of understanding. But, you weighed up, you also did promise yourself a walk through Baden-Baden´s famous rosegardens, and time was merrily ticking away. Looking at the cuckoo-clock, another typical Swabian invention, you had a change of heart- the spa visit it was!
“Good choice, good choice”, you mumble to yourself, while slowly swimming to the nearest ladder and climbing out of the pool. “Baden Baden, you are a treasure chest of fantastic things to experience. Danke, Baden-Baden, wir sehen uns wieder (thanks, Baden-Baden, we´ll meet again)” Not Friedrichsbad, though. That will never happen.
Back to you, dear reader:What was the most impressive/ beautiful/ majestic forest you have visited so far? What did you love most about it? And did you ever try any German food? Hopefully you were lucky, and didn´t taste Labskaus! Will explain in a later post 😉 Thanks for reading, and as always, would love to hear from you 🙂
Handy information part:
Thermal baths: For nudists or people who are not freaked out by naked strangers – visit stunning Friedrichsbad, For shyer souls – head to serene Caracalla Therme, where you can keep your panties/ swimwear on.
Swabian cuisine: Head to the Geroldsauer Mühle, where you can sample and buy local produce and have a shot at understanding the waiters (no worries, they also speak English).
Grateful shout out: Thanks to David for his lovely comment on my former post on Baden Baden that inspired the title for this post. Check out his truly wonderful mindfulness blog smilecalm for increased peace of mind and vibes of loving-kindness.
Was that Queen Victoria of England just having a casual giggle while meandering along the gently flowing Oos-river? That can´t be right…or can it? You rub your eyes incredulously. Maybe that coffee wasn´t such a good idea after all if it makes one of the most influential women in history suddenly appear out of thin air. What´s more: If you peer really hard into the distance, you can spot Dostoyewsky´s silhouette just at the end of the street, heading into the majestic Casino. What the hell? You try to shake it off – what are these shenanigans, you ask yourself quietly and slightly nerve-wracked, just to turn to your left and find Tolstoy writing away on a napkin, right at the round elegant table next to yours. The great Tolstoy! Maybe you could quickly ask him a thing or two about War and Peace, or Anna Karenina? There´s gotta be some secrets to his magic writing sauce! How else could he come up with such meaningful phrases like
“All the variety, all the charm, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow.” ― Leo Tolstoy, Anna Karenina
“Entschuldigen Sie bitte?” (Excuse me please?) You slowly register a gentle voice with a quietly determined undertone. “Mmh?” you reply, only gradually coming back to yourself. You must have dozed off, that must be it, you tell yourself decidedly while glancing wide-eyed at the elegantly dressed waitress. “Entschuldigen Sie, aber wir schließen jetzt!” (Excuse me, but we are closing now!) , she explains slightly apologetic. “Ok, ok, kein Problem” (No problem) is all you can muster to say, while picking up your coat and purse and leaving a few coins Trinkgeld, tipps, on the black-and-white patterned table. “Bye Tolstoy”, you whisper ever so quietly and step out onto the imposing alleys of everyone´s favorite 19th-century German spa town. Well, maybe not everyone´s, but sophisticated Baden-Baden had its fair share of admirers among the rich and famous of the nineteenth century.
A spa-town like no other: Healing baths, cultural haven
Having been settled by the Romans, Baden-Baden had to brave a lot of obstacles throughout its history- yeah, the school of hard knocks named life, you know what I mean. People go through it, cities go through it, countries go through it. And animals. Maybe even ants? Anyway, there´s a time for everything, so at the end of the 18th century, it was finally Baden-Baden´s time to shine, and what a shine it was, ladies and gentlemen! Baden Baden was truly the stuff stories were made of back then. Elegant, rejuvenating, luxurious stories, that is!
The Kurhaus with its splendid casino. Dress up and party like Dostoyewsky!
Leo Tolstoy. He does look as if he could use a little time out in Baden-Baden here, right?
Countless roses have chosen Baden-Baden as their homebase
The mighty Trinkhalle, where you can sample…fresh water! Take that, Gin and Tonic.
This is how the town would have looked like when Tolstoy came to visit
Baden-Baden´s main alley back in the day
Is that Napoleon III´s ghost in the distance?! Ah well, never mind…:P
The spa-town in south-western Germany, located only 10 kilometers from the border with la belle France, was and still is famed for its mild climate, its pristine air, and its high acclaimed thermal springs. Baden Baden, a name which translates to bathing bathing (no surprises there) takes great pride in its illustrious list of visitors. Want some gossip? Good old out-of-this-world novelist, essayist, journalist and philosopher Dostoyewsky wrote his masterpiece The Gambler here…while gambling his money away at the town´s notorious casino. Maybe he was just doing some research? A writer/journalist gotta know what he´s writing about, after all! Other famous visitors who chose to vacation in bathing bathing include German composer Johannes Brahms or French composer Hector Berlioz.
Inspired by Napoleon III and Queen Victoria: Strolling around spa-town
You can almost sense their silhouettes gliding majestically over the pavement and through the spacious alleys of Baden Baden, passing by the many imposing mansions and villas as well as the serene and lush park-landscapes. Napoleon the III must surely have had a drink or two of pure spring water from the Friedrichsquelle at the Trinkhalle (pump house) Kurhaus spa complex in his days. His ghost might be surprised to find a tourist office in the commanding building nowadays. Queen Victoria and her entourage most certainly loved paying some visits to the world-class- rose gardens dotted around town – Baden Baden is dubbed the Rose capital of Germany, after all!
A rose for you
Exploring one of Baden-Baden´s many parks and rosegardens
It´s all water under the bridge
Flowers overlooking the Oos-river
Taking some deep breaths in the Black Forest
Typical Black-Forest-style house . Pretty cute, right?
Living it up. Btw, Obama came to visit Baden Baden. But he probably didn´t stay in this house. Or did he?
Following in Royalty´s footsteps, it won´t take you long to realize that this place really has a certain “je-ne-sais-quoi“, as the French say: a very particular something. It might be due to the laid-back pace of life, or it might be thanks to the superb quality of air that thousands of lime-trees, oaks, tulip trees, and chestnut-trees gift their visitors with. (Trees rock!) Or it might just be the mix of the alluring regal architecture, the luxurious and extra-spacious alleys, and the exquisite cuisine, that makes foodie´s mouths water…Spätzle, anyone? It´s probably all of the above and then some. And no matter whether you prefer to spend your time admiring cutting-edge contemporary art at the museum Frieder Burda or strolling along the peaceful Oos-river, there are some highlights that no visitor should miss!
And next time…
It would be my absolute pleasure to let you in on some more delights of the cultural and spa capital Baden Baden in my next post, where I´ll take you along on a visit to Friedrichsbad with its warm, bubbly, healing waters. Oh, and on a little getaway to the fairytale-like Black forest. Oh, and we might be indulging in the scents of hundreds of roses together. And, of course, tasting some fantastic, tastebud-infatuating regional cuisine. Are you up for that? I know I am!
Back to you, dear reader: Have you ever heard of Baden-Baden before? Or have you maybe been to a spa-town or some hot springs which you particularly enjoyed? As always, I would love to hear from you! Enjoy your week, wherever you may be, and thanks for reading:)
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How did you enjoy the taste of my entree a la Hamburg? Did it melt on your tongue, tasting of delicious seawater and tantalizing sweetness? I hope it left you wanting for more, because the secret recipe for today´s main meal is ready to be revealed! And I promise you, you are free to spit it out if it leaves you wanting… and you might wanna get a Fischbrötchen, a breadroll with fish, or a Rote Grütze, a typical Hamburg berry-compot with vanilla sauce, instead 😉
What´s on today´s menu, anyways? Let me, your designated waitress, chef and guide for this journey, have a quick look: As a main, inspiring discoveries in the world´s largest warehouse district await you. That´s cool, you say cheekily – while I can hear a quiet belly rumble from your side of the table – but what about the dessert? Ah, Geduld mein Freund, patience my friend, we´ll save the best or at least the naughtiest for last!
Main course: Meandering through the Speicherstadt
Whether you have a soft spot for nostalgic backdrops, a secret craving for architectural marvels or a longing for salty sea air, the Speicherstadt, the world´s largest warehouse-district, has got you covered. Meander along charming bridges, admire the one-of-a-kind red brick facades of houses built on a foundation of oak posts, or pause for a while and let your gaze wonder over the so-called Fleete (canals) of the district.
You might even try and whisper the canal´s names in your companion´s ear – the names are quite lovely, really, with one canal named Kehrwiederfleet, meaning come-back-canal in German. You might even be ready to add a “Ich liebe Hamburg” – I love Hamburg , who knows!
Hamburg , the so-called “Gate to the world”
Admiring the Speicherstadt-cityscape
Impressions of a ship in the harbor
Be sure to check out some of the Speicherstadt´s highlights and cool photo-stops such as the Canal Castle on the Holländischbrookfleet Canal, or the Harbor Police Station No. 2, which can be found at the end of Kehrwiederfleet Canal.
Exotic scents and scary explorations in Hamburg´s world heritage site
But it´s not just the stunning architectural features and the romantic flair that the district exudes, there are also quite quirky attractions to be discovered when out and about in this Unesco World Heritage site! Follow your nose and it might lead you right away to… well, maybe a fish restaurant, but if not that then definitelySpicy´s Gewürzmuseum! This cute little find offers visitors a chance to smell and touch around 900 herbs and spices from all over the world, so get your hands dirty, ahem scented and enjoy sniffing around for a while. Maybe don´t bring your dog, though, he/she might get pretty confused…
If something slighty more action-packed is more down your alley, there´s nothing better than the Hamburg Dungeon, a place where actors lead you through the dark chapters of Hamburg´s rich and multilayered history in an interactive and pretty memorable experience! I visited the Dungeon myself ages ago, and what can I say…it´s not for the faint of heart! But I personally can´t even watch Game of Thrones, so don´t be too deterred by that statement. Visiting the dungeon is, well, in this case, absolutely fun, exciting and informative, there´s no doubt about that.
Out and about in the Hafencity: From museums for ocean lovers to concert halls for architecture aficionados
Another, more traditional cultural choice within the Hafencity- area is the International Maritime Museum with its impressive collection of model ships, art, and photographs. Located in Hamburg’s oldest preserved warehouse, this museum is a testament to Hamburg´s identity as Europe´s third-busiest port and the so-called “Gateway to the World”, as the “Hamburgers” call their port proudly. Check out the giant ship´s propeller at the museum´s entry – it weighs a whopping 15, 6 tons!
Voila the tiny ship propeller
Entry to the International Maritime Museum
Check out funky “Elphi” in the distance!
Other highlights that might tickle your fancy include the truly mind-blowing Miniatur Wunderland, a place that theoretically should only wow 5-year-olds, but in reality can blow the socks off of any too-damn-serious adult! Let your inner child out of its cage and explore an intricate and really very tiny world when visiting this extraordinarily popular exhibition.
Also, Hamburg´s newest landmark, the slightly pompous Elbphilharmonie concert-hall is well worth a visit – or even a look from the outside, as its postmodern architecture is a sight to behold. The hall is one of the largest and acoustically most advanced concert halls in the world, says Wikipedia, and Wikipedia knows best.
Wow friends, this main course has been quite filling, don´t you reckon? Let´s take a little time to digest this – the next post, the last one about Hamburg for now, will be entirely dedicated to the yummy desert-options a la Hamburg-style! Now my questions to you – what´s your favorite attraction or place to visit in your hometown? And why is it special to you? Thanks for sharing, write you soon!
Handy information part:
How do I get there? By public transport – take the U3 train to Baumwall station, the U1 to Meßberg station, or the U4 to Überseequartier station.
Tell me more about the museums? Aber sicher, sure: You can find Spicy´s Gewürzmuseum at Am Sandtorkai 34, 20457 Hamburg. It´s open daily from 10 AM to PM.
Hamburg Dungeon can be found at Kehrwieder 2, 20457 Hamburg. It´s open daily from 10 AM to 5 PM. Miniatur Wunderland is located at Kehrwieder 2-4/Block D, 20457 Hamburg, and has great opening times: Monday to Saturday 7 AM to 12 AM, Sunday 8 AM to 11 PM.
And if I wanna know more? Head to architecturally stunning Chilehaus, which hosts a World Heritage Info Point. It´s open daily from 10AM to 5PM.
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Oh Hamburg meine Perle – Oh Hamburg my pearl Du wunderschöne Stadt – you utterly beautiful city Du bist mein zu Haus – you are my home Du bist mein Leben – you are my life Bist die Stadt auf die ich kann – you are the city that gets me Auf die ich kann – that gets me
Oh yes, Hamburg, you are loved by many. Despite your often grumpy skies, your famously reserved way of being and your sometimes impossible attitude (housing market, I am looking at you!) you are a power to be reckoned with, a glorious, wild yet sophisticated city that deserves to be seen, celebrated and cherished.
German singer Lotto King Karl, born and bread in Hamburg, is just one of your many admirers, as can be witnessed above by taking in the chorus of his iconic anthem to the Northern port-city with the telling name “Hamburg meine Perle – Hamburg my pearl”.
Germany´s second-biggest city is a place of countless canals, of willows along waterways and of oftentimes chilly, yet cosmopolitan people, a city with an intriguing and long history full of deep dramas and untold tales of bravery, and a city that draws visitors with its abundance of beautiful lush parks, world-class museums, spectacular musicals and, of course, its exorbitant, wild and raunchy nightlife.
Hamburg Alster lake
Hamburg harbor
Hamburg has more bridges than any other city in the world!
Hamburg´port is the third-busiest in Europe
Dreamy autumn day in the suburb of Alsterdorf
Central Hamburg
Hamburg´s outstanding inner City park Planten un Blomen
Hamburg also happens to be the city I was born in on an early spring morning sometime in the decade of questionable fashion choices, and the city I´ve lived in the longest from the seven cities I´ve lived in up till now. All in all, it´s definitely a place I can quietly whisper a lot of stories into your ear about: funny ones, sad ones, exciting ones, and forbidden ones. But hey, we gotta start somewhere, right? So let me tell you about my favorite places to meander in, dream about and have deep belly-laughs with when in Hamburg-town!
First, I´ll treat you to an entree of delightful things to experience while visiting the so-called “Tor zur Welt” (door to the world) today – and to a fabulous main course and mouthwatering desert in a few weeks. Sounds good? Then “los gehts” (let´s do this)!
The entree – die Vorspeise: Watery relaxation à laHamburg
Hamburg´s essence is deeply connected with its two rivers: the Elbe river, the main waterway that connects the city to the North sea, and the Alster lakes, central spots for Hamburg beings to walk around, bike around or sail, row and paddle on.
What better way then to start dipping your toes into Hamburg´s true watery essence than to explore everything that these two mischivious water ladies have to offer? Let´s focus on the mighty Elbe river for now.
Shenenigans on and around the Elbe river
Without further ado, let me introduce you to a piece of the Elbe lady´s story – because what else defines a powerful woman like her better than her equally as powerful story! Put simply, it´s thanks to the Elbe´s mighty ways that Hamburg is the economic powerhouse it is today.
The Elbe river hosts Hamburg´s impressive port. Image by klaushh from Pixabay
Located at about 100 km from the North Sea, the Elbe has been Hamburg´s gateway to the world since the days of the Hanseatic League, a clever commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and market towns in Northwestern and Central Europe formed in the late 1100´s (yep, that´s how old hunky Hamburg is!) So yeah, Hamburg decided early on that it wanted to be a multicultural and worldly hub, back when that was not even a thing for most places. As would be expected, such a trendsetter has a lot of cool things to offer – such as
Cruising the Elbe river for next-to-nothing
Take an HVV- ferry from the Landungsbrücken Piers at the harbor and you´ll get to mingle with locals on this regular public transport mode of transportation. For the price of peanuts, HVV- ferries take visitors to the industrial port as well as the picturesque Elbe river beaches and the famous musical theatres on the south bank – keen on the Lion King musical, anyone?
Enjoying Hamburg´s urban beach-setting
Mingle with locals at urban beach hangouts
Pack a picnic, get off at Elbe beach if the weather allows and make a leisurely day of it. While you´re at it, make sure to check out the trendy urban beach club “Strandperle” close to the Övelgönne ferry stop! When living in Hamburg. I used to absolutely love hanging out at the other beach clubs close to the port, such as Hamburg City Beach Club, fancy Lago Bay, Hamburg del Mar, and the more laid-back StrandPauli. Have a “Rhabarberschorle” (rhubarb lemonade) or an “Astra” (Hamburg beer) while you are there and indulge in some good old people-and river-watching.
Venture underground at the Old Elbe Tunnel
If you are a fan of out-of-the-ordinary experiences, you´ll love exploring the old Elbe tunnel. Constructed in 1911, it prides itself in being the first river tunnel on the whole European continent and a true standout of civil engineering. Hop underground for a quick and cool photo session or explore the tunnel on foot or by bicycle.
Head there on weekends, when the tunnel is closed to traffic, and do consider exploring up-and-coming neighborhood Wilhelmsburg on the other side of the tunnel.
View trendy Wilhelmsburg from a former bunker
In Wilhelmsburg, you´ll be able to enjoy a young, urban vibe, picturesque river nature and cozy pubs and restaurants. Hop on bus line 13, which bears the intriguing name “Wilde 13“(the wild 13) and allows you to check out all the major sights of Hamburg´s largest hood. For a little something different, visit the “Energiebunker“, a former WWII bunker that now serves as a power plant, dispatching renewable enery en masse. Here, you can enjoy the stunning view over Wilhelmsburg that the bunker´s cafe, located at 30 metres height, has to offer.
One of Wilhelmsburg´s surprising sights, the windmill Johanna. Image by Spudaitis from Pixabay
Hamburg being the cosmopolitan home to over 1.8 million people it is has so much to offer that it would probably take me hundreds of articles to cover them…but I hope this serves you as a delicious little entree to the endless meal-options that the port-city has to offer! Now it´s your turn: Have you ever been to Hamburg, or to other places in Germany? What did you like best about it, and what surprised you most?
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Imagine yourself around 2000 years back. You are dressed in a traditional Roman tunic and when looking down, you realize you are wearing the type of sandals you vaguely remember from the movie “Gladiator”. Therefore, you are quick to tell yourself that you could very well be in Rome, the epitome of power, wealth and glory in those long-lost days. Clearly, you arent, though – the chill on your skin indicates that you gotta be in a quite different location, a location which bears the rare honor of being named after the Roman emperor and which could definitely use some warmer temperatures, dammit!
2000 years back, you would have found yourself in Augusta Treverorum, a city which nowadays is better known as Trier and lays claim to be the oldest city in good old Germany. Augusta Treverorum might have been more of a hotspot for budding Roman signorinos and stylish Roman signorinas in their sexy tunics. But fear not, Trier is still a place more than worthy of your time and attention! Points in favor? No worries, let me take you along to my top 3 experience-Trier spots, places I was fortunate enough to experience on a whirlwind road trip from Germany to Spain a while ago:
Travel back in time – visit the Porta Nigra
Don´t you just love those very special places that conjure up images and feelings of long-lost tales of hope, promise, challenge, and endeavor? Places that almost effortlessly transport you out of yourself and right into a totally different world. Well, to me, the Porta Nigra in Trier is definitely one of those magical hotspots! Built in grey sandstone just before the year 2000, it is formally known as the largest Roman city gate north of the Alps.
Exploring the former Roman city gate
Porta Nigra impression
Saying hello to Porta Nigra
Following in Simeon´s footsteps
Interior of the Porta Nigra
View over beautiful Trier
The secrets are in the sandstone…
Informally, it simply rocks to explore the several stories- high building and its distinct vibe – who knows, maybe that´s the presence of the ghost of greek monk Simeon, who lived as a hermit in the Porta Nigra after 1028 (up to his death in 1035) and very rarely descended from his contemplation-spot. Or it might just be the ancient sandstones whispering tales into your ear about those long-lost days when the northern entry gate to the Roman city got turned into a church…
Recharge and reboot – experience calm at Trier cathedral
For lovers of calm, Christianity and churches, head to Trier Cathedral, the oldest bishop’s church in Germany, built smack in the middle of Trier’s city center. Take a tour and check out the remains of the first Early Christian assembly room north of the Alps from the late 3rd century. Alternatively, explore more pieces of ancient Rome in Trier by visiting the Roman central section with the original walls rising up to a height of 26 meters. Art worshippers will be delighted by the variety of artwork and architecture from more than 1650 years that can be found within the impressive building.
Trier cathedral I
Trier cathedral II
Cathedral meets vines and perfect sun rays
Standing in front of Trier´s cathedral, open since 1270
Hola and hallo
Interior of Trier cathedral
Beautiful angel sculptures in the courtyard
Disconnect and reconnect – take a stroll along the Moselle river or the city center
Trier is an astoundingly picturesque city, to say the least: located in the beautiful Moselle wine region, not far from the border to Luxembourg, it offers an enticing melange of well-kept Roman remains, beautiful architecture and stunning surrounding scenery. If you are as much into reconnecting with mother nature as I am, head to Moselle river and listen to the soothing sounds of the water stream, soak up the soft green of the rolling hills and enjoy an invigorating walk. If you prefer the hustle and bustle of the city center, head to Trier marketplace (Marktplatz in German) and check out the many eateries, shops and gorgeous houses all around. Or, carpe diem to the max and just enjoy both, nature as well as city life!
What´s your preference, dear readers – nature or cityscapes? And why? Read you soon!
Intricately decorated building in Trier city center
Look at that stunning portal!
Trier townlife
Beautiful rolling hills and forests close to Moselle river
Handy information part:
So, what´s the gist regarding Porta Nigra? – It probably won´t have moved anywhere so far, so head to Porta-Nigra-Platz, 54290 Trier, and you´ll find it there 🙂 Opening times are – April – September: daily 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. October and March: daily 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. November – February: daily 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. Admission is 4 Euros per adult, 2 Euros for kids.
And what about Trier cathedral? You´ll find it at Liebfrauenstraße 12, 54290 Trier! Opening times are – April – October: daily 6:30 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. November – March: daily 6:30 a.m. – 5:30 p.m Admission is 6 Euros per adult
Photography: All rights reserved @A gypsy at heart
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Traveler, Writer, Journalist, Translator, Language and Yoga teacher, Cultural Scientist. The author of "Speak in Spanish- Fun and motivation on your learning journey" as well as the multicultural novel "Von Fischbrötchen, Sangrianächten und Chaoswelten". Love animals, the arts, laughter, traveling through inner and outer worlds, the healing arts.
Weltenbummlerin. Reisende in inneren wie in äusseren Welten – in Gedanken, Büchern, Filmen, Meditationen, im Schreiben – sowie in fremden Ländern und Kulturen.
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